Sunday, March 12, 2006
Les Enfants Not so Terribles
Les Enfants Terribles is everything you want in a funky downtown French bistro. It's small. It's loud. It's packed with cool, young European patrons who quite conceivably would be shocked if you were to tell them they were in Chinatown and not St. Germain.
On Saturday I had a late dinner with my girlfriends at le Pere Pinard's sister resto. The darkly lit room with tiny tables surrounding a bar exuded a sexy, mysterious charm. The maple wood walls lended a cozy warmth to the room while the banquette seating gave it a clubby feel. The scene added to the party vibe with tightly packed tables filled with chic, international diners dancing to techno beats being spun by a DJ.
The menu is small but to the point. Steak frites, roasted chicken, scallops. Mostly bistro fare with a touch of North African influnce (fried plantains and casbah lamb). The wine list is also streamlined but well-priced. Try the Pouilly-Fuisee or Sancerre. They go perfectly with the roasted chicken that's crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.
The cutest touch? A throwback to elementary school, antique classroom deskchairs sit outside for smokers wanting to chill and chat. The French think of everything when it comes to fumeurs.
Final Word: The perfect antidote to the trendy mega eateries on Food Network row, (Del Posto, Morimoto, Buddakan...)les Enfants will make you feel like a rebel against all things oversized, overpriced and overhyped. Vive la Revolution! 37 Canal St at Ludlow St